January 2026
Over the past decade, Bodrum has cranked up the voltage. The once-sleepy Aegean town now mimics the pulse of Mykonos with its bottle-service beach clubs and raki-soaked parties. Shiny new hotels open each season, but sitting above the fray is Macakizi. A sprawl of whitewashed cottages half hidden beneath retina-popping bougainvillea that spills down to a yacht-dotted bay, it’s a pulse-slowing alternative to the party scene just 40 minutes away in downtown Bodrum.
Most of the day takes place on the sun-dappled wooden jetty — swimming, reading and playing backgammon — with the luckiest guests bagging the front loungers by the ladder that slips straight into the ocean. Stray cats sleep under tables and no one’s in a hurry, yet although service seems relaxed, staff don’t ask for anyone’s room number twice.
The property began as a guesthouse opened by Ayla Emiroglu (nicknamed ‘Macakizi’, or Queen of Spades) in the 1970s, and quickly became a word-of-mouth classic. Today it’s still the place those in the know return to — same room, same table, same sunbed.
Throughout the day guests — silver-haired regulars, art industry insiders and off-duty directors — slip in from the jetty barefoot for long, languid lunches. At dusk the sound of the lapping tide is drowned out by the clinking of ice before dinner, when silk shirts and Hermès scarves set loose as everyone lingers over dishes that taste of the land and sea.
Bodrum may have changed over the years, but Macakizi is still its original glamourpuss.














































